China Explored, Part III: Lakes, Lanterns, and the Lights of Shanghai

I woke up for day 7 of our adventure in China feeling pretty crummy. The air pollution got to me and it hit hard. You probably noticed that in many of our photos from the first 6 days we are wearing face masks. Reason being, China has some of the most polluted air in the world and the masks are specially designed for lung protection.

The air quality index (AQI) used by the Environmental Protection Agency provides a measurement for how polluted and safe or unsafe the air is, as shown in the chart below.

I used the weather app on my phone to check the AQI values daily while we were in China. The scores can vary greatly from hour to hour, day to day, and between cities. For example, the first day in Beijing the value was over 160, the next day in Beijing the value was only 100, and when we arrived in Shanghai the value was 205. Since I tend to develop a sore throat from inhaling second-hand cigarette smoke or chemical fumes from cleaning products, I made sure to wear a mask most of the time we were out. The problem with wearing the mask in cold weather is that condensation and moisture build up pretty quickly, especially when walking, and things can start to feel uncomfortable. I made the mistake of not wearing my mask as often when we were in areas where the value was under 150.

Pollution over Lake Lihu 

So, here I was, far away from home with a fever, aches, chills, and a hacking cough that wouldn’t quit. Mitch went for breakfast alone while I stayed in the room and slept. He talked with the guides about the possibility of seeking medical attention and brought me some fresh fruit and hot tea. Since we never get sick and don’t even own any medicine, we were terribly unprepared for this sudden change in health. Thankfully, the new friends we made from California and Texas kindly hooked me up with an assortment of cough drops, cold and flu medicine, and decongestants from their stashes. I popped a few pills, hoped for the best, and off we headed to a wetland parkĀ for a morning walk.

Although I wasn’t feeling my best, the Wuxi Lihu Lake National Wetland Park, part of the larger Lake Taihu, did not disappoint. The energy was very calm and even in the cold of winter, many of the trees and shrubs were lush and green. Scenic and peaceful, the park appeared to be a popular spot for practicing tai chi and strolling the trails around the lake with a cup of coffee or tea.

This beautiful wetland is also a place of mystery and romance. According to Chinese legend, the famous businessman and philanthropist Fan Li, gave away all of his fortune and possessions then disappeared to live a life of seclusion with his lover Xi Shi, one of the Four Beauties of Ancient China. The iconic couple retired to Lake Taihu, making their home on fishing boat and never to be seen again. Our guide prompted couples in the group to cross the bridge hand-in-hand if they wished to spend 5 lifetimes together like Fan Li and Xi Shi.

Our next stop was to a freshwater pearl market in Wuxi. I’m no pearl expert but others in our group said the prices here were very reasonable. There was a variety of pearl jewelry available in every color and setting from rings to bracelets, necklaces, and earrings. I didn’t purchase any but I will admit it was all very beautiful.

After pearl shopping we had lunch then settled into the bus for a nice, long 3-hour drive to Hangzhou. We purchased tickets for the optional excursion that evening which included a trip to the Songcheng theme park, also knowns as the Song Dynasty Town, to see the show, Romance of the Song Dynasty ($65/person). I have always loved performing arts and was glad that we had the opportunity to experience a variety of performances on our tour.

Just inside the gates of the Song Dynasty Town theme park.

The park was much bigger than I expected and heavily decorated with lanterns, lights, colorful paintings, and garland. The theme park is meant to tell the story of the song dynasty in ancient China and includes three components: high-tech facilities, performances, and cultural activities. Throughout the park there were lots of little shops and an abundance of snack stands.

Lanterns galore!

We had about an hour and a half of free time to explore the park before the show. By this time I was feeling awful and not very interested in walking around or checking out the exhibits in the park. I decided to take some Nyquil, which made me feel better but, as expected, super drowsy. After walking around for about 30 minutes, I plopped myself down on a bench for some people-watching. I soon realized that being some of the only western folk in the park meant we would be the ones who were people-watched. I felt as rare as a unicorn sitting there in my Nyquil haze being photographed and videoed by people passing by.

Needless to say, we didn’t see much of the theme park nor did I remember to take many pictures. We met back up with the group and headed to the theater. The show, which has been seen by over 60 million people, was completely sold out.

The performers all wore beautiful costumes and there were many set changes. At one point during the performance we were spritzed with water during a rain simulation. The show told the story of the Song Dynasty, and although it was very entertaining, the dark lights and pleasant music had me nodding off to sleep a few times. Hopefully no one noticed.

I hardly remember walking to the bus or the ride home. It’s possible that I sleep-walked my way back. The next morning I was feeling somewhat better as we headed off to West Lake in Hangzhou for Day 8 of our tour. Once the capital of the Song dynasty, Hangzhou was described by explorer Marco Polo as the “finest and most splendid city in the world.”

Situated in the center of Hangzhou, West Lake is another of China’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and credited as the source of inspiration for Chinese, Japanese, and Korean gardens for several centuries. We declined the optional boat ride on the lake ($35/person) and opted to enjoy its beauty by land instead. But first, a short walk for some coffee…

Walking along the street searching for coffee in Hangzhou.

We had about an hour of free time and decided to walk to a nearby Starbucks. There were many small shops and restaurants along the way and the streets here were very clean. I ordered a caramel macchiato and was pleasantly surprised to find that my drink was only a tad sweet, unlike the super sugary version served in the U.S.. I also loved the assortment of cute cups and different prepared foods. With our caffeine-fix met we headed back to walk along the picturesque lake.

Zooming in on the bridge.

Next we were off to the Dragon Well Tea Plantation in the mountains above Hangzhou. Also known as Longjing, Dragon Well tea is known for its high-quality and longstanding status as the most famous variety of green tea in China.

Garden at the entry.

If there was one thing I wanted to buy in China it was some good green tea, so I was thrilled about the opportunity to visit the country’s most famous plantation.

Rows of tea bushes.

We sampled brewed tea and dry roasted tea leaves while learning about tea production from plantation staff. Usually we think of tea as something we drink, but in China they say “eat your tea” because the flavorful leaves can be eaten with each sip or saved to be eaten after brewing several cups.

Eat your tea!

Even in China this famous tea isn’t cheap. We ended up purchasing two packed canisters of tea leaves and were given a bonus mini canister for free. For 300 grams of tea, approximately 126 servings, we paid about $85 USD, or 67 cents per cup. However, the leaves are so potent they can be re-steeped up to five times, assuming you don’t eat them all while enjoying your first cup.

We had lunch at a local restaurant near the tea plantation then drove to Shanghai, our final destination on the tour. We purchased the optional excursion for the evening that included a trip to Daning: The Life Hub followed with the acrobatic circus performance ERA: Intersection of Time ($60/person).

The Life Hub is an open-space multi-use center with restaurants, trendy shops, apartments, coffeehouses, hotels, and landscaped green areas with benches and walking trails. We had free time to wander about or grab dinner in the Life Hub before the show and couldn’t pass up the opportunity to eat pizza in China. We ate at Pizza Marzano, an upscale pizza chain with restaurants scattered over the United Kingdom, Europe, China, and India. It was delicious and a welcome change since we’d been eating noodle and rice dishes all week.

After dinner we strolled the Life Hub, admiring the bright lights and Chinese New Year decorations.

The Cirque du Soleil-esque, ERA: Intersection of Time was wonderful and featured many talented performers. While we didn’t think the storytelling was quite on par with Cirque, we still enjoyed the show very much. The most jaw-dropping act featured six performers on motorcycles riding around the inside of a metal globe.

Our last full day in China would be spent exploring Shanghai. Day 9 started with a visit to the Bund, a waterfront area showcasing the tall skyscrapers that make up Shanghai’s iconic skyline. These modern buildings lining the Huangpu River are known as China’s Wall Street. The view was beautiful though the air was heavily polluted. Masks on!

The other side of the river features buildings of many different styles and is sometimes referred to as China’s museum of international architecture. We enjoyed a bit of free time walking around the Bund area before heading to an art gallery featuring painted and woven silk.

After lunch we visited the City God Temple Bazaar. The streets in this area are filled with all sorts of shops selling artwork, clothing, souvenirs, and more. It’s also a foodie’s dreamland with teahouses on every corner and countless restaurants and stands selling local street food.

Perhaps the most coveted foodie item from the bazaar is the Xiaolongbao, a Shanghai-style dumpling invented by a street vendor in 1900 and still wildly popular today. Not your typical bao, these soft, delectable buns are filled with crab meat and hot, savory broth. Delicious.

Three’s company.

We also went on a hunt for the giant scallion pancake vendor after seeing dozens of happy people walking around with the jumbo-sized treat in-hand. The line was long but the pancakes were totally worth the wait. The best way I can describe the taste is to imagine a big, freshly-fried potato chip.

We expected to see more western tourists in Shanghai given that the city is known as China’s international hub, but seeing none, we definitely stood out among other visitors. One man asked if we would pose for a quick picture and was surprised when we asked him to hop in the photo with us.

We finished the evening with a cruise on the Huangpu River to see the Shanghai skyline all lit up at night, which was offered as the final optional excursion of the tour ($50/person). The architecture and colors have an otherworldly look like something out of a sci-fi flick.

Day 10 involved an early flight to Beijing, a long layover, and an even longer flight back to California. We felt lucky that our new pals were booked on the same flight so the fun time we were having together could continue for a bit longer. Overall it was a wonderful trip. We visited a ton of historical places, saw ancient relics and exhilarating performances, learned a lot about Chinese culture, and made great new friends all in just 10 short days. Until next time, China! Thanks for reading.

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